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NYFW: Killing me Softly

February 15, 2014

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After a very intense, overtly colorful and exuberantly arty spring season, the gang of NY seemed to retrieve back in their (soft) shell, killing softly all kinds of loud color. In fact, the urban almost agressive vibe that NY normally offers, seemed to soften up to the point of pastel and fuzzy material. From mohair overdose at Costa’s take on Calvin Klein, cashmere OTT at the Olsens’ brand and Jeremy Scott’s subversive take on lockroom action, or even Wang’s first shy steps to slighly more feminine shapes, the message was loud and clear: go soft or go home.

The biggest hommage to soft was done by none other than Marc Jacobs who got his inspiration somewhere over the rainbow. The question still remains whether this season will end up being a total snooze. Here’s hoping that Muccia, Phoebe, Nicolas et al will give us yet another season to remember.

Trier’s Nymphomaniac: A Sex Odyssey Review

February 1, 2014

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Lars Von Trier’s talent has always been based on his unprecedent capacity to shock and surprise his followers through his overtly provocative, overtly visual and overtly critical take on society’s moral or more often than not immoral rules.
This time around, he focuses on sex excess with his usual cast and always troublesome Charlotte Gainsbourg. What’s interesting about his latest film, is that unlike his previous, melancholic heavy drama palava, Nymphomaniac is somewhat on a lighter almost comical mood at times, due to the stark contrast between the cultural naivete of his heroine and the abundance of knowledge of the male virgin character Seligman.
Although Joe’s journey is separated into two visually identical, occasionally too commercial and explicit volumes, the two films are quite different. In the first part, the viewer is exposed to the chronicles of her sex addict life, without necessarily exposing any character development but more of a shock tactic visual symposium. On the second part, Charlotte’s character is finally revealed and shows the transfomation of the woman who is more than aware of her victimhood to her raw, untamed sexual insticts.
Trier manages to flaunt all his views on human nature and society (whether on the lethal human nature, on pedophilia, religion, motherhood, s&m etc) in a way that only he knows how. His only problem is that towards the end, in an effort to cover too many topics, the films becomes almost a victim of social cliches and ends up being lisible rather than scriptible, losing its credibility.
For all the rest, God and Trier created pussy and penis for a reason.

Mad for those Men: The Top 12 Looks of MFW Fall 2014

January 23, 2014

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Mens’ fashion week may be over earlier this week, giving its way to the delicate art of couture, but unlike common perception, men’s fashion is long from dead. In fact, it was one of the best prelude to the season to come. Top highlights to note:

1) Dior homme did some suit pieces to die for (from polka dots to floral rhapsodies, it was a delightful yet elegant show)

2) Logomania and 90s proved to have no limits when Kalvin Klein paid hommage to iconic perfume names

3) Lanvin’s indirect nod to Disclosure motifs seemed to be a hit

4) Out of this world and probably best collection to date by Raf and artist Ruby

5) Basket ball has never been hotter when done in Givenchy style

6) Bailey’s effiminated boys showed that the scarf must go on

7) Tie&dye is happening again thanks to Dries Van Noten

8) Kenzo’s jackets were midnight art central

9) Acne Studios took camouflage to another space level

10) Acid tie&dye the coolest way possible

11) The art of the craft by Riccardo Tisci once again

12) The talented Mr Brown gave us couture zoo

20/20 Philippe Parreno: The Artist is (Not) Present

November 10, 2013

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In stark contrast with his fellow contemporaries like Damien Hirst, Marina Abramovic or oldies such as Warhol & co, where their claim to fame becomes a centrepiece, Parreno is all about the absence of the artist. Although clearly not a loud personna (few knew him before his participation in Art Basel), his latest Palais de Tokyo expo is a perfectly orchestrated journey that speaks louder than words. In fact, the always industrial Palais has been readjusted to fit Parreno’s cold & bold art installations.

Using technologies in a mostly deja vu way,  from gigantic led screens, strobing lights and video installations he manages to tell a story. A story about how even the colder of machinery hides a real human behind. If there is any of his work that says something  is the video Marilyn. Great retro ambiance with orange and blue filters echoing the voice of M Monroe somewhere among the walls of a Waldorf suite. Only to find that the hand written love letters are done by a machinery.

In other words, don’t be fooled, humanity is as dead as that blond bombshell that once sang happy birthday to Mr President.

19/20 Remember, Remember The Trend of Movember

November 8, 2013

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Thick, long and excessively hairy.  No it’s not what you think (The very furry Fendi accesories, what else?!). It’s the month of the moustache. And it’s for a good cause: time to raise awareness for the big C (c for testicular cancer, but of course).

So boyish men, mennish boys and even tomboy girls (the amount of girls with drawed in moustache is excessive blame it to Rihanna) have been flooding the streets in style. Undoubtedly, it’s not the easiest of looks (after all the references somewhere between old porn, Mario bros and even Salvador Dali are plenty) however it adds an instant touch of je ne sais quoi character.

And to the cause of the moustache many have tried, but many have failed. The best man in town to watch is Francois Verkerk, a model turn personna turned dandylicious. His signature look has been the talk of boystown for quite a while now and why shouldnt it be? He perfectly encapsulates the perfect man: stylish, romantic with a hint of virility and a touch of twisted. Enjoy.

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18/20 Klein Me Baby One More Time

November 7, 2013

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Warning: nudity galore! Although the latest Steven Klein edito featuring the ever dominating Malgosia Bela, feels more like a #ThrowbackThurdsay moment rather than a new edito (after all it’s just another typical klein moment of nude, irreverence and some traumatized boy in a noir ambiance), there’s always sth cool about the way he shoots his muses.

Undoubtedly, Helmut Newton would be proud. After all it’s feminine nude at its most twisted state. And boy do we love Malgosia’s androgynous, very ready to pee standing up pose. Whether his portrayal of women’s beauty is offensive or not, whether it’s art or soft porn or whether he’s just another enfant terrible who cares. What matters is that he’s still one of the best agents provocateurs of the fashion industry. And for that, let’s wish he always hits us one more time!

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17/20 Listen Now: Donatella, Mary Jane Holland & Other Gaga Stories

November 6, 2013

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An early leak of the latest Gaga album means Youtube is already flooding with gagalicious songs. On a first round of listening, it is crystal clear that finally Gaga got her fame monster groove back with songs reminescent of her original golden days. Whether or not it’s an album that came too late for the Mother Monster (after all Born This Way was never appreciated the same way as her previous work) will be judged sooner than expected.

In an era where the music scene is dominated by Lorde’s moody vocals and Miley’svery pop, very now and very over the top youth it will be a real revelation to see whether the mass will once again put their paws up for Gaga.

Here is a breakdown of the songs that make ArtPop the album it is today:

1: Aura – Muslim inspired culture fused with exotic sounds with a quite haunting repetitive laugh yet a killer bridge

2: Venus - Intergalactic retro fabulous

3: G.U.Y – Addictive androgynous sounds to listen on repeat

4: Sex Dreams – Kylie inspired softcore with a good mood

5: Jewels & Drugs – Niggas in Paris gone Gaga – not necessary

6: MANiCURE – dynamic, punky, one of the best in the album

7: Do What U Want – 90s are back in a retro groove

8: ArtPop – soft that conveys gaga’s new obsession marry music and art

9: Swine – a bit too electric, good when on drugs

10: Donatella – pure dirty pop with Donatella plastic sounds cant go wrong

11: Fashion! – A bit too soft for an addictive habit like fashion!

12: Mary Jane Holland – very Rupaul

13: Dope – Depression galore sounding Gaga

14: Gupsy – Yet another ballad song

15: Applause – Classic yet not her best in the album

16/20 It’s Official: Ghesquiere Gone Vuitton

November 5, 2013

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It was goodbye Marc Jacobs and hello Nicolas Ghesquiere earlier this week at the iconic French house that made logomania hot again. The visionary (at least pre Wang era) behind Balenciaga, a brand that thanks to him became synonymous with futuristic cuts (those neo warrior floral dresses or those oversized nun hats), minimalistic attitude and excellent mix of primary colors (who can ever forget those lego shoes) is about to create a whole new era for Louis Vuitton.

In line with his predecessor, the ever joyful ever quircky yet more often than not ever dark Jacobs, Nicolas will hopefully bring to the brand a very the-future-is-now feel with iconic moments of fashion (oh those space invaders jumpers) that can infuse Vuitton with the relevance that’s been missing over the past seasons.

After all, just like Jacobs, Ghesquiere has a religion of his very own and just like a fashion prayer, his sartorialist skills will recruit more and more followers..

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