Ever since Raf Simons replaced Dior’s enfant terrible in the hopes of recreating a new era for the french maison, the otherwise talented Mr Simons had failed to fascinitate with a wow moment, playing it safe. However this was not the case at his latest show in rainy Monaco. Raf did what Raf does best: vibrant colors found in the most modern shapes and forms. Cuts that were so aerodynamic even Hussein Chalayan would crave and lines so now that the Celine aficionados would definietely fall for. All in all, it was a whole new sartorial breeze for the maison Dior that proved that Simons got it after all. It was simply a matter of time and his time is now.

           

The all american sweethearts have officially grown up (Selena Gomez, Vanessa Hudgens and Pretty little liar main star Ashley Benso) on this Korine film that deals with what often stigmatizes the lives of the american teenagers: the culture of “spring break”. Visually stunning, a film that successfully combines elements of video gaming, soft porn and neon colors to narrate the story of 4 american girls in their teenage crisis, caught somewhere between the end of innocence and the beginning of the absolute mal (perfectly captured in the Britney  Spears scene).  As this film suggests, springbreak is often the perfect form of escapism that we all seek in one form or another (call it drugs, call it shopping, call it exotic journeys). However what happens when this “break” from reality becomes too permanent?

This movie, though limited in real caracter development or intriguing plot (after all the director gives us clues of the ending way earlier) manages to question the substance of the american dream and expose its futile nature. For some it is the notion of absolute power (see James Franco), while for others a simple LA trip away,  yet all with the same expiration date.

In its effort to caricaturize our overconsumerist, superfluous society that many teenagers represent and assume today, the film ends up almost idolizing those behaviors and elevates these girls to real contemporary icons. Have we officially reached the age of un-innocence?

1. Chloe Norgaard and hair as the ultimate accesory: After Charlotte Free, this model gave us a signature hair look that gave her a well deserved 15 minute of fame, from Moschino to Proenza Schouler, Chloe’s rainbow hair was a living proof that color is alive.

2. It’s a FunFur: Peta lovers won’t be happy, as fur is still dominant this season. Playful accesories (Chanel hats, Wang’s boxer gloves and even Fendi’s very furry hair) stood out.

3.Tying the knot: Wrapped around the waist, in all sizes, the knot seemed to emerge as some kind of a new fetish that i really appreciated in Philo’s Celine and Givenchy’s rockers.

4. Tartan: Brits were never especially renowned for their exquisite elegance, however something tells me their punk influence made the cut, with tartan ever dominating the catwalk in all fashion capitals.

5. Go big or go home: Big, bold and beautiful. Size will always matter especially when it comes to cool prints as seen in Mary Katrantzou or Comme des Garcons.

6. Like a prayer: For some fashion is a religion and what better proof than the Italian boys’ hommage to Virgin Mary and christian references.

7. Wang does it better: Many changes occured the past few seasons, but among the 3 (Hedi Slimane, Raf Simons and Alexander Wang) it was Wang who proved that a fresh start is always possible.

8. Boots, start walking: thigh high boots became an obsession yet again.

9. Last night a PJ saved my life: Put on your night gown and be sexy was the message that Marc Jacobs infused both of his shows with.

10: It’s a wild blog world: Season after season, a new culture has evolved: the blogger mania. Outside those tents is where the attention has moved, commercialization of fashion or victims of ephemeral fame?  it’s up to you to decide.

Dropping the Yves might have been a fresh new start for the otherwise visionary Slimane who made Dior Homme cool again with his ultra skinny boy toys, however one couldn’t help but wonder: what happens when Couture itself is dropped in the name of mass market fantasies?

Last season, Slimane sucessfully revisited some YSL classic references with a modern yet commercial twist (blame it on the hats, who was not to love?) With an ad campaign reminiscent of Zadig & Voltaire, Slimane gave us what he knows best: black&white set, tattoed loving girls delicately wrapped in a very rock aesthetic.

However, this season he did it again. Undoubtedly, this time around, the YSL girl dropped the hat yet not the attitude and gave us punk.

Overall, instead of old plein yet safe  Zara, this collection came more or less across as Primark. And in an era where true fashion aficionados are more and more obsessing over tailor made, distinctly chosen garments, something tells me that selling a cheap look, will probably fail selling expensive outfits.

You know you are looking at a cultural phenomenon, when people turn to reading as a form of artistic/orgasmic escape, neologisms galore (mummyporn anyone?) newspapers (see DailyMail, the Independent) talk about a potential baby boom provoked by this erotic novel and Hollywood is insatiably searching for the perfect Christian Grey.

In literature terms, the narration is one dimensional, the vocabulary is repetitive (how many times can one cock his head?) and the plot is underdeveloped, the raunchy scenes being somewhat of a highlight throughout the book and of my dull day in rainy Paris..

HOWEVER, the book, written by a middle aged by a Twilight fan, hits the nail on the head. 50 Shades of Grey represents the perfect opportunity to rekindle the lust that has been quite lethargic over the past few years of economic and cultural crisis, a lust that has been saturated and overtly exposed. If anything, 50 Shades of Grey manages to expose another, much more scarier shade of lust: that of pure, animalistic desire that one finds in all humans. And if a book can have such a strong aphrodisiac effect whether on menopausal women, single girls or even men, then we are talking huge commercial success. The moral of this story, if any? Put down the book and go and have sex.

Laters, baby.

If I were to align this blog, by choosing one collection that encapsulates what JesusWasSize0 is all about, Mr Tisci’s collection for Spring 2013 would be the One. Managing to turn digital prints into iconic statements and fashion into massively followed and worshiped is where the success of the brand lies.

Forget panthers, rottweilers and birds of paradise, this season was all about the queen of all good: the Virgin Mary. Religious references were prominent, channelling gowns from a child’s communion, holy images and soft, heavenly palettes. All in all, this collection is the quintessence of Givenchy under Riccardo Tisci: edgy, urban, androgynous and to die for, hopefully leading one to the Givenchy heaven. Let us pray (and pay) for more..

Filed under: Inspire Me Now! Tagged: givenchy, holy, religion, riccardo tisci, spring 2013, virgin mary ]]> http://jesuswassize0.com/2012/06/30/givenchy-the-holy-grail-of-fashion/feed/ 0 constantin 67983892c20d11e1a9f71231382044a1_7 holy http://jesuswassize0.com/2012/06/24/milan-fashion-week-go-bold-or-go-home/ http://jesuswassize0.com/2012/06/24/milan-fashion-week-go-bold-or-go-home/#comments Sun, 24 Jun 2012 13:20:57 +0000 Jesuswassize0 http://jesuswassize0.com/?p=4613 ]]> Somewhere between hectically searching for a flat in Paris and a bad hangover, Milan showcased the future of men’s fashion, otherwise known as Spring 2013. Undoubtedly, 2 shows managed to stand out: Bailey’s Burberry Prorsum and Italian duo Dolce & Gabbana. 2 major fashion houses, 2 completely opposite approaches.

For their show, the D&G duo decided to stick to their roots like never before. Forget 6 packs, Norwegian and other continental beauties strolling down the runway, this season was all about serving Sicilian realness, with non models of all ages. The collection felt authentic, emotional and family friendly. Very down to earth and different from before. However, to what extent will fashion freaks respond? After all, isn’t the power of fantasy and magic still crucial for the irrational devotion to luxury? With some of the clothes looking less dazzling on those people, one might ask: when does reality get all too real?

Bailey on the other hand decided to forget about the past and look into the future with a sartorial twist. And in this Burberry collection, the future looked bright (a bit too bright at times) with colour metallics dominating the catwalk (a tendency also seen in the Versace show). Some elements fitted right in, while others (metallic sandals with black socks) seemed quite alien to the sophistication Bailey has otherwise excelled in.

So the question remains, when it comes to branding for fashion, to stick or not to stick to one’s roots? The answer, as everything else in life, is not clearcut. What is certain is that in our society, impression prevails. So whatever you choose to do remember one thing: Bold is the future.

God might have created fall and spring and the rest of the 4 seasons, but fashion has brought a new season in our calendar: Resort. And once more, with his Givency collection, the talented Mr Tisci proved that Resort is here to stay. Always urban, always androgynous, this time around there is a new twist; the gypsy element. Geometrical, earthy colours with new cuts and shapes gave the Givenchy woman a more romantic more ethereal look, yet always keeping her urban warrior identity. With a collection like that one can’t help but scream: Give me more!

Though quite small, the exposition Louis Vuitton Marc Jacobs at the Arts Décoratifs successfully captures the  long lasting, undoubtedly successful marriage between two pioneering spirits: Louis Vuitton standing for everything traditionally elegant and exclusively ostentatious, with Marc Jacobs, representing the American culture, this great melange of everything. A wall of inspiration, like a life form Tumblr allows us to take a look into Marc’s world: from fetish videos, Vivienne Westwood and Valley of the Dolls, to Bob Squarepants and even muscle men (after all who would forget his complete makeover that was extensively discussed in Arena Homme back in 2007).

However what really stands out in this exhibition is the outmost wit found in the way collections are showcased. Whether using funny titles (see Cage Moss), new ways of interaction (the Peepshow wall has a voyeurist aesthetic that matches beautifully our indiscrete obsession with fashion) or plain odd mechanics (the clockwork leg structure), Marc and the curator in charge have obviously thought this one through.

Even if some of his aesthetics come to full contradiction with the elegance of Louis Vuitton, what is great about Marc is his daring vision to embrace this mix and match of cultures to make something new and different. It is up to you to decide whether it is always beautiful or beautifully plain odd.